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Corridors · Vol. 012Byway

A desert road that names itself after water

One hundred and twenty-three nationally designated miles between Bryce Canyon and Capitol Reef, catalogued by a roster that keeps naming creeks.

The byway is called Journey Through Time. Its viewpoints are not called anything of the kind. Read the roster of fourteen straight through and the word that keeps returning is water: Overlook Waterpocket Fold, Calf Creek Viewpoint, Lower Calf Creek Fall, Steep Creek Overlook. A fifth, Mossy Cave, is named for what water leaves on rock when it has been there long enough.

Five of fourteen names, on a road across southern Utah, are about water.

Three of them are looking at something else

Overlook Waterpocket Fold, Overlook Capitol Reef NP and Powell Point Vista are named for the thing in the distance rather than the ground you are standing on. Capitol Reef is three miles off this corridor by the record's own measurement, close enough to fill a view and far enough that the road never enters it. These are viewpoints named for their subject, which is a different habit from naming a place for itself.

Two names break that pattern in opposite directions. The Hogback is named for the road — the ridge the pavement runs along, with nothing on either side. And one entry on the roster is called Scenic Turnout, which is not a name at all. It is a description of a pullout that nobody got round to naming, catalogued anyway because it is there.

Half a mile is as far as it asks

Eleven of the fourteen are on the byway itself. The other three are detours, and the detours are short: Mossy Cave at three tenths of a mile, Lower Calf Creek Fall at three tenths, Ledge Point at half a mile. The furthest this road asks you to leave it is eight hundred metres.

That is unusual enough to be worth saying plainly. A corridor with this much protected land around it — the route runs through Bryce Canyon National Park, Dixie National Forest, Fishlake National Forest and Grand Staircase-Escalante — could easily have made its viewpoints an argument for a second day and a trailhead. It does not. Every one of the fourteen is reachable in a stop.

Where the light is

Two of the fourteen carry a best-time note, and both say the same thing: sunrise. They are Overlook Waterpocket Fold and Homestead Overlook, and both sit in the northern third of the drive, toward Capitol Reef. Homestead is also the only lookout on this road the corpus marks verified, holding both an OpenStreetMap record and a U.S. Forest Service one.

Twelve of the rest come from OpenStreetMap alone. Larb Hollow Overlook, the first stop in drive order, comes only from the Forest Service. One road, three registries, and no two stops necessarily recorded by the same hand.

What that makes the drive

A hundred and twenty-three miles, fourteen catalogued stops, none of them more than half a mile off the pavement, and two of them wanting you there at first light. That is not a road you drive through on the way to a park. It is a road where the stopping is the itinerary, and the two national parks at either end are the bookends rather than the point.

The names were given by people who noticed where the water had been. That is the register the whole corridor is in.

Start north if you want the sunrise notes to pay. Otherwise take it in the order the roster gives it, and let the light finish on the far end.

Let The Light Finish

Corridors · Vol. 013

A town where eight streets each end in a view

Eight of the twenty overlooks on Oregon's Pacific Coast are named for the streets that reach them, and all eight sit within a quarter of a mile.

Corridors · Vol. 011

A road that counts itself in mileposts

Six of the twelve surfaced overlooks carry their milepost in their own name. They run from 105.6 to 411.8 — three hundred miles of numbered stopping.

Corridors · Vol. 009

Named for a mountain it never reaches

Mount Kancamagus stands 1,127 m, seven tenths of a mile off the road that carries its name. The five overlooks face water and low hills instead.

Corridors · Vol. 010

An All-American Road where nothing is from here

An Eiffel Tower, a Paris balloon, flamingos, a shark reef, and five museums of other people's pasts. The Strip's roster is a list of somewhere else.

Corridors · Vol. 003

Everything on the Beartooth is named for height

Butte, mountain, peak, palisades, cliffs, bluff, vista. The named features along this All-American Road describe elevation and almost nothing else.

Corridors · Vol. 004

Route 66 builds monuments to businesses

On Route 66 through central Illinois, one stop is a memorial to a restaurant and another is a restaurant's sign, listed as a place in its own right.

Corridors · Vol. 005

On Big Sur, the bridges are the landmarks

Bixby Creek, Rocky Creek, Granite Canyon. Three bridges are surfaced as places along Route 1, and one of them is also a viewpoint in its own right.

Corridors · Vol. 006

The Parkway is numbered, not signposted

The Blue Ridge Parkway measures itself in mileposts, and 73 of its overlooks are named after the number they stand at.

Corridors · Vol. 007

The Keys road has two overlooks and three national parks

Both surfaced overlooks on the Florida Keys Hwy are called Observation Tower and Observation Platform. On this road, there is nothing to pull off and look at.

Corridors · Vol. 008

A loop through what the mines left

A historic mine cart. A gulch turntable. Four town museums and three hot springs. The San Juan Skyway collects the leftovers of an industry.