Mount Dickey

The story

Mount Dickey is a peak on the west side of the Ruth Gorge in the Central Alaska Range of mountains, 12 miles (19 km) southeast of Denali and 4 miles (6 km) southwest of The Moose's Tooth. Despite its relatively low elevation, it is notable for its east face, which has around a vertical mile (1600 m) of sheer granite—it achieves this vertical gain in less than half a mile (800m) horizontal distance. This is one of the tallest rock walls in the world, and the face has seen many world-class climbs. Mount Dickey was first climbed on April 19, 1955, by David Fisher and the famous explorer, climber and cartographer Bradford Washburn, via the West Face, which is still the most popular route today. The route begins at a point in the Ruth Gorge southeast of the peak, ascends west under the formidable south face, then turns north and then east to ascend the south side of the gently sloping West Face. This route is relatively straightforward and short for an Alaskan climb (Alaska Grade 1). It is also the most common descent route for those who have climbed the extremely technical routes on the East Face. Roger Cowles and Brian Okonek made the first winter ascent of Mount Dickey in February 1979. The first route on the east side of the mountain was climbed in July 1974, by author-mountaineer David Roberts, photographer-mountaineer Galen Rowell, and Ed Ward. Their 5,100 foot (1,554 m) route climbed a pillar on the southeast face; most of their ascent was accomplished over four days. Perhaps the most famous other route on the mountain is the "Wine Bottle Route" on the right side of the east face, climbed in 1988 by Thomas Bonapace and Andreas Orgler. This is an exceptionally technical and long route, 5250 feet (1600 m) high. Other similarly challenging routes have been climbed on the mountain since.

From Wikipedia, CC BY-SA 4.0.

Wikidata Q6920440, referenced by the OpenStreetMap record.

What the record says

Elevation

2909.3 m

How to reach it

Named places within 25 miles

Other summits around it

The highest named summits within 19.9 miles of Mount Dickey. Elevation from each summit’s own record; bearing measured between the two coordinates.

When to go

Light through the year

Local time (America/Anchorage).

Climate normals

Months averaging 50–80 °F: Jun–Jul.

1991–2020 U.S. Climate Normals, NOAA NCEI — Chulitna RVR, 27 mi away.

Inside the official boundary of Denali National Park. Quietest months by visitation: Jan and Nov; busiest: Aug.

NPS visitation statistics, monthly averages 2021–2025 (2020 excluded).

Where this comes from

OpenStreetMap element node/4524374131